Few caverns in the world approach the astounding wealth or
the extent of those of Jeita. In these caves and galleries,
known to man since Paleolithic times, the action of water
has created cathedral-like vaults beneath the wooded hills
of Mount Lebanon.
Geologically, the caves provide a tunnel or escape route for
the underground river, which is the principal
source of the Nar el-Kalb (Dog River). Located some 20 kilometers
along the highway North of Beirut, a large sign indicates the
right turn from Zouk Mickael village, just beyond the tunnel.
The caverns are on two levels. The lower galleries, discovered
in 1836 and opened to the public in 1958, are visited by boat.
The upper galleries, opened in January 1969, can be seen on
foot.
To mark the inauguration of the upper galleries, arranged by
the Lebanese artist and sculptor Ghassan Klink, a concert was
organized in the cave featuring electronic music by the French
composer François Bayle. Other cultural events have taken
place in this unusual venue, including a concert by the German
composer Carl-Heinrich Stochhausen in November 1969.
Jeita remained a popular attraction until the recent Lebanese
conflict forced it to close in the mid 1970’s. Upon the
initiative of Minister of Tourism Nicolas Fattouche, the Ministry
charged the German company "Mapas" to renovate and
re-equip its facilities by the most modern techniques and to
operate the complex. On July 6, 1995, this natural wonder was
again open to the public.
JEITA
REDISCOVERED
The modern discovery of the underground river of Jeita dates
to 1836 and is attributed to Reverend William Thomson, an American
missionary who ventured some 50 meters into the cave. Reaching
the underground river, he fired a shot from his gun and the
resulting echoes convinced him that he had found a cavern of
major importance.
In 1873 W.J. Maxwell and H.G. Huxley, engineers with the Beirut
Water Company, and their friend Reverend Daniel Bliss, president
of the Syrian Protestant College (later the American University
of Beirut) explored these caverns. In two expeditions carried
out in 1873 and 1874 they penetrated 1,060 meters into the grotto-principal
source of the Nahr el-Kalb that supplies Beirut with water.
They were finally stopped by "Hell's Rapids", where
the river flows in torrents over razor sharp rocks.
Like explorers everywhere, Dr. Bliss, Mr. Maxwell and the other
engineers could not resist recording their names and the year
on "Maxwell's Column", a great limestone pillar some
625 meters from the entrance.
About 200 meters further on, in the so-called "Pantheon',
they wrote their names and details of the expedition on paper,
sealed it in a bottle and placed it on top of a stalagmite.
The action of the lime- impregnated water has since covered
the bottle with a thin white film, permanently
fixing it to the stone. Between 1892 and 1940 further expeditions
were carried out, mostly by English, American or French explorers.
These efforts brought them to a depth of 1,750 meters.
Since the 1940's, Lebanese explorers, notably the members of
the Speleo-Club of Lebanon founded by the first Lebanese speleologist
Lionel Ghorra, have pushed even deeper into the Jeita grotto.
Their methodical exploration revealed the great underground
system of the upper and lower galleries which is now known to
a depth approaching 9 kilometers.
The upper galleries, discovered in August 1958 by Lebanese speleologists,
required a hazardous climb to 650 meters above the entrance
of the underground river. Altogether, 2,130 meters of this gallery
have been explored.
Inside the caverns:
In summer you can visit both the upper and lower galleries while
enjoying the refreshingly cool temperature inside the caves.
The lower section is sometimes closed in winter when the water
level is high, but the extensive upper galleries are open all
year.
Plan on about two hours for the tour, which includes a boat
ride through the lower galleries, the visit to the upper galleries
on foot and a film presentation.
The Lower Galleries:
This part of the cavern takes you to a beautiful underworld
millions of years in the making.
Both the 600-meter boat trip on a subterranean lake is only
a sampling of the system that has been explored for almost 6,910
meters. The first impression is the sound of rushing water and
a sensation of clean cold. But the roar of the waterfall at
the entrance gives way to profound silence as you glide deeper
into the cave. An effective new lighting system illuminates
expert rock climbers-and marvel at the columns and sculptures
fashioned by those great architects-water and time.
The Upper Galleries:
The approach to these dry galleries through a 120-meter-long
concrete tunnel does little to prepare you for the surprising
world beyond. Formed several million years before the lower
caverns, this section shows what the entire cave system was
like before geological conditions displaced the subterranean
river to its present level.
For 650 meters you wind your way through different levels of
the caverns, contemplating the flowing stone draperies and other
formations. Perhaps the most dramatic sight is the yawning canyons
and sink holes, some seen at a drop of over a hundred meters.
Getting Around Jeita
Leaving your car in the parking area, you purchase entry and
parking tickets. From here the fun begins with a short ride
up the mountain in one of four Austrian cable cars. If you prefer
land transportation, a Disney-like "train" pulled
by a small replica of a steam engine makes regular runs up and
down the hill between the parking area and the upper galleries.
Near the entrance to the upper galleries is an air conditioned
theater which has scheduled showings of a film about Jeita in
several languages. Check which time the language you want is
shown so you can coordinate the film with your visit to the
cave.
The tickets you have bought double as access cards and are inserted
at the entry gates of the upper and lower galleries and for
the cable car. Also keep them handy for the train and the theater.
When departing, your parking ticket is needed to exit the gate.
The facility has several restaurants, snack bars and restrooms
as well as souvenir shops selling Lebanese handicrafts. Open
Tuesday through Thursday from 9 am to 6 pm and Friday through
Sunday from 9 am to 7 pm. Closed on Mondays, unless it is a
national holiday.
- Photography is not permitted inside the caves -